Travelled: 250 kms (Total 3,493 kms)
We’re leaving the South behind today as we start our journey homeward. Plenty of riding and challenges still to come. Bring it on!
My first challenge is ride back down Richard and Heather’s road (not that I actually rode up it – not even riding at 3km/hr could get me up it!)
Brakes fully engaged and at snail’s pace, I gingerly make my way down in one piece and we wound our way down to the Interislander terminal.
It’s not the best day weather wise, but I take heart that the arrow on the Sailing Conditions board is pointing to only 2 waves – Calm. Yay!
Quite different to our crowded south bound trip, we probably only saw another 20 passengers.
The aforementioned arrow did not reveal Wellington had on offer, rain and VERY BIG gusty winds.
Off the boat we carefully picked our way through town to towards our hotel. On Featherston Street Greg was stopping at the lights, when he was blown off his bike, with his leg and the front chain ring connecting. Not a pretty sight!
Back up again, we decided it would be much safer to walk the last 1.3km to the hotel instead of risking further injury.
We were stopped by a bicycle courier who was keen to find out about what we were up to. A keen cycle tourist himself, it was lovely to chat and get a picture of our bedraggled selves.
Showered and warmed up we headed back into town to meet up with my cousins Michael and his wife Paula, and Chris and her husband James.
Michael could only stay for a short time before heading of to one of his retirement dinners this week after 38 years in the public service.
We all went on to dinner, with James’ son Michael. It was so great to chat and catch up with Chris. She looks so much like my Mum (only wished I had got a photo of us all). Lovely evening, thank you everyone for making it work on our only night in town.
We have decided to follow the Tour Aotearoa route through to Palmerston North, having been assured by Richard in Picton, it was all doable on loaded touring bikes.
The new day brought calmer winds with showers as we headed off the next morning.
Trying to connect with the Remutaka Cycle Trail, we found the cycle track out of Wellington and rode on.
Initially all was fine but the cycle trail ended up unbarriered beside the motorway. Pretty harrowing as the traffic is passing you at 100km/hr with nothing between us and them.
We seemed to be on it longer than expected and sure enough we had missed the off ramp to Petone. No big deal, except it was raining, making it hard to work Google maps on the phone and the traffic noise made it hard to talk about where we were and what to do next.
Having stopped just passed an off ramp we made our way back to the off ramp and headed into Lower Hutt, and voila, the Hutt River Cycleway.
The rain has stopped for a while and we enjoyed our ride alongside the Hutt River through to Upper Hutt, with very friendly barriers on route.
A short ride through Harcourt Park, we arrived at the campground a bit wet, with more rain due overnight. No cabins available, so tenting it is. Very sad face!
We did manage quite well, with Greg putting up a makeshift clothes line to get our gear dry overnight under the camp’s BBQ shelter.
As we were making dinner in walked Ben, who we had first met at Monkey Island and then again on Rakiura – small world!
A fine day dawned and although the tent was wet, we packed up and headed back to Hutt River Trail which merged into the Remutaka Cycle Trail.
The Remutaka railway was built between 1874 and 1878 as part of the link between Wellington and the fertile Wairarapa district.
For the hundreds of ‘pick and shovel’ workers the conditions were harsh with most living in tents and surviving on the basic supplies of flour, sugar, tobacco and tea. Their own hunting of kereru and wild cattle provided a little variety to their meals.
Conventional engines brought the goods and passengers from Wellington to the Summit and “Fell” engines (named after the inventor of the central rail system that allowed them to negotiate such a steep incline) were employed to cope with the steep descent of the Remutaka Incline to Cross Creek.
This Incline section was the steepest section of main line railway in the country and operated from 1878 to 1955.
Our ride took us steadily up to the Summit at 1141 feet, where we stopped for lunch.
The naming of the Remutaka Range was attributed to Haunui-a-nanaui who travelled around the lower North Island naming many of its features.
When he scaled this particular mountain range he stopped near the summit for a rest and declared the entire range “Remutaka”, which loosely translated means “to sit down”.
We were certainly glad for the Summit’s shelter to sit for our lunch, although it was very cold up there.
Leaving the Summit, we descended through the longest tunnel, the Summit Tunnel of 580 metres, with a 1 in 15 gradient.
The wide views and tunnels continued as we made our way down.
With an opportunity to use the new suspension bridge at Horseshoe Gully.
I’m sure the view from the bridge would have been amazing if I’d been able to do anything but keep my eye forward in the hope I’d make it across.
These bridges are not my favourite as this video will attest. Please don’t watch if language may offend.
Greg on the other hand was happy to walk back for a better look.
All settled down, we rode through to the last station on the trail, Cross Creek.
Coming out at Cross Creek carpark, we were welcomed by a couple of goats, but we still had 27 kms to go to Martinborough for our overnight stop and it was already 4:30pm.
The light was fading fast.
With a small ford to cross. Greg managed to come to a halt in the middle of it, as it was deeper than expected and I fell off on the gravel before the water trying to take a more measured approach.
We ended up riding the last 15 km in the dark. Thankfully it was mostly flat and our lights did a great job keeping us visible but not the best experience that we’ve had.
Way too late for tenting tonight, all snug and cosy in a cabin with heater on full and our makeshift clothes line across the room, perfect!
It was a beautiful morning as we rode through the Martinborough township and passing vineyards on the way out of town.
The rolling country roads were very quiet as we rode through Longbush and Gladstone to Masterton.
Having not stopped for lunch on the road, we found the delightful Trocadero in Masterton for a warm drink and sweet treats before heading onto the campsite.
That evening we meet 79 year old Richard, who was cycling from Nelson to Napier. All kitted up with his panniers. Definitely years left in us yet!!
Another clear day, and avoiding SH2 for much of the ride, we again took the roads less travelled.
Travelling through Mauriceville, we found an abundant apple tree perfect for foraging.
And on into Eketahuna’s cute little campground at the back of town.
We walked into town later partly through the Cliff Walk, opened by Eketahuna 1911, in honour of the coronation of King George V.
We browsed a couple of antique shops before having a drink and chips at the local.
The next stop on the Tour Aoteatoa route was Pahiatua but we thought we would be able able to make it through to Palmerston North today and given it was a Sunday, it would be a good day to get over the Pahiatua Track with less traffic.
With instructions from a local, my brother Stuart, on the route to take we headed off down SH2 before turning off and taking the hilly back roads through to the Track.
I had been nervous about this ride, as the track seemed daunting, winding and steep, but as has been proved time and time again, my fears are worse than reality.
It was winding and steep but not overwhelmingly so, and before I knew it we were heading into Palmerston North and luxury at Stuart’s place.
It felt very special to be riding into Stuart’s home. He is an avid road cyclist and has been a keen follower of our journey. Even checking our daily Strava feed to see where we were each day. I felt like his little sister had done good!
We hadn’t seen Stuart and Jenny’s new home since it had been finished. It has been a labour of love and great vision, and it shows. It has come together beautifully.
We were even treated to the honour of being present for the first light of their fire.
While in Palmy, we visited my long time friend, Carol, who I had worked with at TipTop Ice Cream.
Carol has dementia and is living in a lovely care home in Fielding. She did remember me and although her memories are very mixed up, it was so lovely to see her and see her looking so well.
We were also able to call on my Uncle Trevor and Aunty Beryl for a lovely afternoon chat.
Not sure what happened today but no photos of either these visits!?!
It was lovely to spend a few days with my family. We were so well cared for, thank you all.
With Stuart’s direction’s in hand, the roads to the East are calling…
What we are reading Greg – The Secret Race by Tyler Hamilton & Daniel Coyle and The Moral Landscape by Sam Harris and Jeanette – The Dennison Rose by Jenny Pattrick
JG on balance 
Very zen – beautifully written and clear clean photos.
Dale xx
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Looking forward to seeing you soon!!!
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