Heading out on our bikes seemed daunting but once through Lisbon city we rode alongside the Tagus River.

The ride was mostly on cycleways including a 6km boardwalk section and a slightly muddy unpaved section, without making contact with the towns to our left.

The day passed with relative ease although we were glad to arrive at our destination, Vila Franca de Xira.

Stopping at local cafe for some lunch, we chatted with local, Ailsa, before heading for local municipal campground. Nice facility but very damp underfoot.

The rain started while we’re having dinner back in town, not yet ready to cook for ourselves, at a local restaurant recommended by Ailsa. Nice simple fare.

The tent was tested on its first outing as it continued to rain all night. The next day dawned clear skies and it dried off nicely before being packed up.

Using Google Maps as our route planner we headed inland working our way towards the Atlantic coastline.

Passing by a huge solar energy plant where the panels seemed to cover a large area over the next few kilometres.

We also saw the first of many cork tree fields to come. The trees were often marked which shows the year the tree was stripped.

Cork forests were planted as far back as the 13th century becoming valuable in the 17th century when cork replaced previously used wood or oily rags to seal wine bottles.

And they are still valuable today, as the most of the wine we have seen is still sealed by a cork.

The climate changes being experienced around the world had not escaped Portugal. Their unseasonably high March rainfall had wreaked havoc on the largely unpaved route Google had chosen for us.

From large bodies of water on the roads and muddy single tracks and to pothole-ridden unpaved back roads and pools of water stretching from one side of the road to the other, it was a tough day at the office.

Not having any accommodation sorted or any campgrounds at our destination, Alcoentre, and arriving on Sunday, did not set us up for any easy end to our day.

Pondering our dilemma at the local cafe, having tried the local motel with no success, I approached a local, Carlos, using Apple translator, to ask if he knew of anywhere to stay.

And as is the magic of a small community, he knew the motel owner, who he rang. The owner came down to the cafe, waited while we finished our food and then we followed him back to his motel for a very comfortable evening.

My sore bottom provided not to be just saddle sore but actually had a blister! Compeed to the rescue. Not the usual application for its product but very effective nevertheless – maybe a new marketing avenue!!

Deciding Google was not going to be the route planner of choice we switched to Komoot with much more success. And being able to sync the route to Greg’s watch saved on precious phone battery life too.

Óbidos was our next stop and a rest day. It will have been 3 days in the bikes and with our lack of training we knew we needed to take it gently.

The route took us through pear country, mixed with small vineyards.

Passing a local area grower and their fruit shop, we got the most delicious small figs, perfect for our riding snacks and in breakfast. The pears were great too!

And catholicism is ever present with a statue present in most villages.

Riding into Óbidos we passed under the Usseira Aqueduct, built in 1570, to feed 2 fountains in the town (next to the town gate and the other in the main town square, Santa Maria square).

A gift from Portugal’s queen, Catherine of Austria, it must have been such a great boon for the town to have a reliable water supply to hand. Catherine paid for this from the sale of her own land.

At the town gate we were greeted by a singer, making the most of the acoustic tiled entrance.

Óbidos is a small village dating back to 1195, set inside a 1565m long castle wall. The wall is walkable but there are no safety rails and in some parts 13 metres high. I managed to gingerly climb one set of steps and peek around at the top while Greg happily walked a section.

It has become a very touristy spot, but it has still managed to retain its historical charm.

The beautiful weather was perfect for exploring inside the castle walls.

Although the many churches weren’t open, there were cute little shops to explore including a fantastic Portuguese linen shop with amazing damask linens. It was hard to walk away without buying. I needed reminding we are on cycles!!

The high portion of book stores within the walls is due to a Literary Village project which saw the renovation of degraded spaces that transformed them into bookstores. A perfect place for Greg to wander around his beloved books.

Our accommodation just outside the walls was delightful and provided some glorious views of the castle walls at night.

Our rest day concluded with an amazing meal at Real Casa do Petisco – piglet belly for Greg and chicken Portuguese for me after a starter of Sardinha. Just superb!

It’s time to pedal again, the Atlantic is calling…