Back on the bikes, the day was sunny with a strong Nor’easter as we cycled towards the Atlantic coast.

Our first view of the sea was just short of São Martinho do Porto, and also the start of the coastal cycleways.

There was quite a bit of building happening for what we have assumed to be a holiday homes as we continued up the coast.

We arrived in Nazaré in time for lunch, our pre prepared rolls on the beach front.

Nazaré is a surfing Mecca, renowned for having maybe the world’s biggest waves. The beach is fronted by apartment buildings with street level tourist shops and eateries. Behind these weave the more traditional narrow and steep cobblestone streets.

Making our way up the hill to the campground we were very ably assisted by a local on a very steep section which we were already walking.

We met a German couple with their 2 preschoolers, one which wasn’t yet walking, who had cycled from the Algarve, southern Portugal, and kiddie trailer in the campground the next morning. What an amazing family, fantastic effort! Having exchanged details we might see them in NZ at sometime.

Staying at an Orbitur campground is like a Top10 back home – reliably clean and tidy with hot showers.

None of the campgrounds have a kitchen area. They have a bench of outdoor sinks, some for dish washing and some for laundry, of which we generally take up 3 sinks worth to cook on and then sit on a nearby wall or pathway to eat.

Luckily there haven’t been many people at the campgrounds to get in the way of.

Leaving Nazaré we continued with the red cycleways, passing through some seaside settlements.

And our first lunch on the road today.

With the tent setup in the Praia (beach) de Vieira campground, we walked down to the beach. Long stretches of fine white sand with mostly closed tavernas and apartments. Guessing it’s a bit early in the season to have many people around.

It was another great day following the red cycleway for most of the ride to São Pedro, just short of Figueira do Foz.

Through sandy desert landscapes with the occasional abandoned home. Small coastal plants, wilding pine nut trees and the occasional gum tree plantings which we think are for firewood use.

Another Orbitur and another rest day ahead. Blog writing and catching up on the washing. We washed most of our clothing to get good value for the €6 a load including detergent.

Dinners have been simple. It’s hard after riding all day to have the energy to cook much and also find ingredients that make it easy. We’ve been having beans, tuna and even an unknown can of beans and sausage, we think!?! My favourite may have been the tinned frankfurters though, with rice and broccoli.

I’m very grateful to Greg for having the energy to put our dinners together at the end of the day.

Campground toilets have provided some challenges. Either no toilet paper provided or at an Orbitur toilet paper is dispensed outside the toilet before going into your chosen cubicle. Been caught short a couple of times!!

And the used paper goes in a bin next to the toilet not flushed. It’s taken a bit of adjusting to!

My Exped sleeping mat started to delimitate quite badly which means I’m now sleeping on a bulbous mat and lots of clothing to keep me warm as the cold ground rushes up overnight.

Hoping Exped Europe will be able to help with this.

It was a cold but clear morning as we continued northbound, riding to the ferry at Praia de Cabedelo where the last day of a surfing competition was under way.

The ferry was free as they are working on the main bridge across the Rio Mondego.

A steep climb out of the town through some lovely hillside villages and onto Guiaios, which is over 500 years old, for our lunch stop in their village square.

Praia da Tocha was the stop for the night, and a walk back into town found us a quiet back street eatery for a simple burger dinner – just perfect.

The beaches continue with the fine white sand theme which easily congregates on the pavements helped by the supporting on shore winds.

The independent or municipal campgrounds tend to have a lot of permanent holiday home set up, either as a caravan or large tent structures. Some with beautifully cared for gardens and patio areas.

It must be a real village atmosphere when the people start arriving for summer weekends and holidays.

The beautiful weather continued, a sunny day with light winds, as we pass through small villages, vegetable gardens in progress for spring planting and homes with religious statues.

We stopped to talk to Anna as she tended her goats. Having spent 40 years in Canada she and her husband had returned to Portugal for the simple life.

Our ride continued on an unpaved and well maintained estuary cycleway beside the Ria de Aveiro through to Gafanha da Nazaré for another ferry crossing.

The short 1.4km ferry ride to São Jacinto was on Portugal’s first electric ferry. Very quiet!

The expected campground at São Jacinto was no where to be found so we cycled further up the Ria de Aveiro to the reliable Orbitur.

Great to be settled, with beer and batatas fritas and even a shelter with picnic tables amongst the sinks to spread our things and have dinner. If only the mossies could have stayed away. I’d already been well bitten by the time the repellent was applied. They were large, plentiful and very hungry! Hi

The German couple we had meet earlier, Isabella and Hendrick, and their kids rode in as we were turning in for the night. Lovely to see them again and spend some time the next morning exchanging touring tips.

The new day started overcast but the sun burned though giving us another glorious day in Portugal as we headed to Espinho.

The riding was gentle with lots of cycleways and passing more lovely village life.

And through a beautiful forested area beside Praia de Santa Marinha.

Stopping at Praia de Esmoriz for look over their sea wall which is vital to protect the lower than sea level community behind it.

Onto Espinho to find our intended campground was closed for maintenance.

Plan B, head to the Marisol campground another 12km up the coast. The route was flat and mostly cycleways and day gorgeous, we can do it. Passing through some more affluent coastal areas on the way.

It wasn’t to be our day with the Marisol campground having actually closed down!

Oh well, Plan C… our last hope was the Orbitur campground in Canidelo, just short of Porto, another 2km on.

And yay, we found a place to rest for the night! Not a lot of tent sites available but we made the most of our quiet spot.

A walk along the beach front and dinner at a local bar and a stunning sunset, a perfect end to our longest day’s ride, 58km.

We had a day to rest before our accommodation in Porto was available and there was rain coming so we moved into a cabin for next night.

This gave us time to test The Atlantic, was it swimmable?

Definitely not! Good for the feet but not ready for this body!!

And time to visit the local and aptly named Janette Experience cafe. The Portuguese do do the cafe experience well.

It is a beautiful coastline. We have thoroughly enjoyed our ride north.

Porto tomorrow and some decisions to be made…