After 10 wonderful days off bikes we were glad to be out again exploring on wheels.

And our first canal cycling was just the ticket.

Leaving Narbonne we rode through some lovely countryside, over a couple of hills before joining the Canal de Midi just outside Argens-Minervois.

The Canal de Midi exists due to Pierre Paul Riquet’s vision to connect the Atlantic to the Mediterranean.

With the Garonne River already connecting Bordeaux (on the Atlantic side) to Toulouse, in 1667 Riquet started the massive undertaking to construct the missing 240km section from Toulouse to Sète (on the Mediterranean coast), taking some 14 years to complete.

The path along the canal was a mix of compacted grave and sealed. Easy flat riding, not a hill climb in sight!!

Having never seen a lock before let alone in operation, I was fascinated when we stopped at Blomac for lunch and two boats were passing through one.

This lock was controlled by a man with a remote control. I think someone disembarks from the boat to let them know they are there.

The boats wait until the lock gates on their side opens which has a water level the same as the boats.

Boats drive in, lock is closed behind them. The lock in front of them is partially opened and the water in the lock rises to met the level ahead of them.

Lock ahead of them opens and voila, the boats drive out, smooth as a smooth thing!

And lunch was delicious!

Very relaxing riding with vistas to match with our first glimpse of “traditional” French country homes.

The weather continued to be warm, 34°C at 5pm, with temperatures reaching a max about this time each day.

Passing through Carcassone, with a quick stop for a cold drink, we rode on to find our first wild camping spot on France.

A quick online search told us that wild camping or bivouac was legal with recommended guidelines of tent up after 7pm and down before 9am.

There weren’t a lot of suitable spots, finally choosing a flat spot just off the edge of the canal path with a view over a vineyard.

Feeling a bit nervous as we set up camp. The canal path was still being well used even after 7pm.

Not a problem through, with many bonjours exchanged, we settled in to enjoy with glorious evening light.

With sunrise no less spectacular.

With the chains oiled, we set off the next morning delighting in the changing canal vistas – bridges, locks, canal boats and the ecluse (lock) station houses, as well as passing for the first time lots of other cycle tourists.

Each lock had a lock house, no doubt for the lock operator in days gone by, and each house has a sign on the front stating the name of the current lock, and the locks to either side and the distances to them.

Such a handy feature, always knowing how far away the next picnic table or water might be.

Some lock houses today still house an operator, some are just private homes and some have cafes operating.

A detour in the small town of Bram, we enjoyed our daily pastries at a rest area before rejoining the canal.

And while messaging a friend back home, we were able to get some relief from the heat. Deborah so cleverly suggested we soak our buffs (headgear worn under our helmets) and our shirts.

Greg took up the challenge whole heartedly with wet shirt and buff, while I timidly just soaked my buff.

Aaaamazing!! Instantly cooler and refreshing. Totally dry again within half an hour but this became our new norm. And I happily joined in shirt and buff, the only way to go!

A pretty lake side stop at the Castelnaudary, where we found out much later, much to Greg’s dismay, was the home of the best cassoulet.

The days are longer than our usual, riding 79 and 65 km days so far. A combination of easy riding and not pitching the tent till after 7pm.

Arriving at Gardouch brought an ideal spot – flat ground, shaded, picnic table, toilets and food available nearby but I was reluctant as there were already another couple ready to set up camp.

The space was small and I didn’t want to encroach on their space.

We decided to park the bikes and check out the nearby food options and then make a decision.

Best decision!

We met the lovely couple, Bernadette and Louis Marie, who belonged to the the tent back across the canal, in the co-op that was open for games night.

We started chatting, as you do, and they were very happy to share the space with us.

After we had a drink and crepes for dinner at the co-op, back at camp, they shared their co-op purchases of bread and jam with us and well us offering us their place to stay near Nantes.

Their place to stay turned out to be truly a gift from heaven, which I will share in a later post.

A co-op was a new experience for us. A group of locals getting together to create a social space usually with a great range of local and ethical products for sale. Not for profit but sustainable enterprise.

The morning light over the still canal was one of those perfect moments. Just glorious.

The trees along the canal provided welcome shade as we headed towards Toulouse the next day.

As we through more populated areas the canal was home to more house boats and Toulouse was no different. Huge variety of colours and styles.

The temperature was still rising, getting to 36° C today.

Toulouse is the 4th largest city in France and home to the European aerospace industry including the headquarters of Airbus.

Installed in our hotel room, with our bikes securely stored in their underground car park, we caught the metro back into town for some exploring.

The main church, Basilica of Saint-Sernin, had a wedding in progress when we arrived. Being a public space, tourists were still able to come in, with an only small portion not accessible.

We sat through a bit of the service and then wandered quietly around, while enjoying the ceremony’s beautiful singing and organ resonating throughout the church. Very moving.

The 16th century church has had a religious connection with this ground since the 4th century, including a time when it was an important stop for pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela.

Reaching 37° C today a cool drink was a must. Citronade, lemon juice and water, was becoming Greg’s go to quencher.

Tonight, was also a France wide music festival, with many towns and cities across the country celebrating with their own Fête de la Musique.

And Toulouse provided.

Catching the 10pm tram and metro back to the city centre, yes very late for those that know me, we were immediately amongst the crowds enjoying the evening, albeit in the minority group of older aged persons attending the festivities.

Here are a couple of short snippets of what was on display.

So cool to have been there. Home just after midnight and my prince didn’t turn into a frog, I’m so lucky!

The next day, our only full day in Toulouse, we went out to visit Le Halle de la Machine.

I had known about the big walking elephant in Nantes, but hadn’t realised that the elephant is only one of the “machines” which are actually created in Toulouse.

Le Halle de la Machine is the design and construction workshop for these giants. Kinda like a Weta Workshop but not movie related, just huge life like moving creatures, created for spectacular productions around Toulouse and elsewhere.

Today the Minotaur was taking people for a ride. Weighing 47 tonnes, it stands 14 metres high, 13 metres in length and 4 metres wide. Not at all small.

Operated by onboard people using their own body movements to bring this giant to life.

Breathing steam and with a visibly moving chest, the Minotaur is very impressive.

Inside the hall, other creations were on display to show how sound and interactions can result from mechanically connecting various different everyday objects.

A walk through the Jardin du Grand Rond on our way home highlighted the Tour de France will be coming through town in 16 July. We will be well gone by then.

Our start to cycling in France has been superb. The Atlantic is calling again, see you on the way.