Leaving Bordeaux we had a good days ride to reach the Atlantic coast.

I was struggling again. Constantly tired and giving myself a hard time.

Ever grateful my legs knew the drill… one turn of pedals and then another and another.

Our ride from central Bordeaux took us through some of their community hubs and out into rural life.

Vineyards and small villages with iconic churches were our vistas as we rode to Lamarque to catch the ferry.

We continue to be blessed with glorious weather. The wind had picked up making it a bit cooler and sun, sun, sunshine!

Our smooth sailing across the Gironde estuary took us to Blaye and its citadel.

Dating back to 1685, the Blaye citadel was built to take control of the river holding Bordeaux in case of a revolt.

Set inside the citadel walls was a full community – houses, businesses, a church with a vineyard just outside.

Today some of the buildings are still private homes and businesses.

Joining up with an old rail trail we rode on looking for a place to camp.

Étauliers had a shady spot in the edge of town, a perfect respite to the hot day but still too early to set up camp.

Gino Pizza was the ideal place to pass the time with dinner sorted at the same time. Such attentive and welcoming service.

Thanks to Bernadette and Louie Marie’s advice, we planned to connect with the Velodyssee, (Eurovelo 3), once we were on the coast.

We wound our way through rural vistas and alongside waterways getting closer to the coast as we headed into Mortagne-sur-Gironde.

A random decision was made to stop at this beautiful port village for a crepe lunch. Not our usual on the road sandwich making today. Adding in some wine and sunshine it called a halt to the days riding.

We enjoyed a restful afternoon under the trees on the other side the town’s locked basin waiting for the evening before pitching up for the night.

The rise and fall of tide was a source of simple entertainment as high tide resulted in the opening of the locks for the boats to enter or leave the marina basin.

Leaving Montange-sur-Gironde took us up a few steep hills, not something we had to contend with for a while, opening up stunning pastoral views across the Gironde and out to the Atlantic.

Paddocks with cut hay and mellowed earthy vistas gave a sense of farming routines that have regulated the cadence of lives in this area for generations.

Passing through small villages and a glimpse of my imagined idyllic rural French life.

Our intention was to stop on this leg for a couple of days somewhere along the coast to try and help with my tiredness.

I had worked out it was over a month since we had last stopped and had a whole day off. We had either been cycling or exploring. It was definitely time to have a day off!

Royan with its beautiful stately beachfront homes, was the start of our coastal ride and where we joined the Velodyssee.

The Église Notre Dame in Royan was quite unlike any other church we had seen.

Intrigued, we parked up for a look inside.

Built during the late 1950s as a replacement for a church that was bombed in 1945. This reinforced concrete structure looked strong and stark.

Yet inside it was softened by the diffused light radiating in through the diamond shaped stained glass windows depicting the Stations of the Cross, becoming amazingly warm and inviting.

Our next stop at Saint-Palais-sur-Mer was to be my refuge. We would stop for a couple of nights.

The campground was small and perfectly formed, the forecast was to be fine and warm, and tipping balance was the use of a proper table and chairs. What was not to like!

Domestics done, showering and washing, we took a walk up the coast to the captivating sunset, it was a relaxing end to our day. 

We joked the even the benches along the walkway seemed to resemble how I’ve been feeling…

The stop was good but the tiredness continued as we followed the Eurovelo 3 signs and rode north. 

Through a forest park, alongside the Bay of Biscay, over a bridge and on to our stop for the night just off the rail trail at Saint-Agnant, home to the biggest dovecote we had seen.

The Pigeonnier de Montierneuf was built in 1513 to house and raise pigeons, being a valuable source of food and fertiliser. This dovecote had the capacity to house nearly six thousand pigeons with 2,959 boulins, nesting boxes.

Continuing along the rail trail we passed some beautiful sculptures in the limestone beside the trail the next morning.

Only to come across the artist at work. It was lovely to appreciate this artwork directly with him.

Although hoping to find somewhere to watch the All Blacks play France, it wasn’t to be.

Luckily as we rode through Tonnay-Charente I was met an ex Wellingtonian, 20 years ago, who let me know the All Blacks had won.

Following the La Charente river we came to an unusual river crossing, Pont Transbordeur.

This transporter bridge was built around 1898, designed to carry a section of roadway across the river using a gondola suspended by a tall span of wires. Not a popular design with less than 2 dozen ever built.

Encouraged by the announcement the next crossing was only 10 minutes away, I dashed off to get tickets.

Excited, with tickets in hand I thought I’d check the route after we crossed.

But, oh no!

There was no river crossing on our route. We’re not meant to be going over the river… just passing through!!

Surely, we can’t be the first to do that!!

Much needed rain was coming in overnight. We were keen to get settled for a couple of days.

Stopping at Les Boucholeurs, we found a campground but the grass was sparse at best. Camping in rainy weather on bare earth, not a good plan.

After changing from our initially allocated bare pitch, to one with a bit of grass and slightly elevated, we were set up to handle the heavy rain forecast.

The site worked well and once the rain stopped mid morning we ventured out for a walk up the coast.

The rain returned sooner than expected in the blustery conditions. I returned to the campground while Greg continued on to get some lunch and dinner supplies from the market in Châtelaillon-Plage.

With the rain has gone, the next day we continued north.

Stopping at the seaport town La Rochelle for a walk, which in the 12th century was the largest port on the Atlantic coast.

The Towers of Rochelle are a show of strength at the harbour entrance to the town and were often the last view for people leaving these shores to explore the new worlds across the Atlantic.

Lunch was beside the Canal de la Marans and on through small villages and fields of sunflowers.

And ending our day settled onto a grass verge on the outskirts of Saint-Michel-en-l’Herm. Such a wonderful thing this wild camping in France.

My body was also struggling now. Sore throat, losing my voice, not much energy.

The riding continued to be a mix of rural village life with ever-changing views.

The rugged coastline was dotted with lots of lovely beaches. An enticing combination, water and sand. Add in sunshine and it’s magic.

There were loads of families out enjoying this magic and plenty of them cycling too.

We decided to make this a shorter day.

After stopping at a surprise find, a newly opened rural cafe with the most amazing chocolate brownie, we were on the lookout for a camping spot even though it was still pretty early.

But as the odds would have it we just couldn’t find the ‘right’ spot.

Passing between rugged coastline and built up areas, wild camping spots were not around.

Another 10 kms on and after 7pm, we rode into Les Sables d’Olonne – 67km for the day.

Glad to be heading to a campground after a long day feeling slightly desperate and very tired, we were told they only accept campervans and motorhome

Seriously! What now??

There was an overgrown fenced area where we turned off towards the campground. Greg had seen people inside so we went to have a look.

It looked like a stalled residential development but there was a gap in the fencing that we could get through.

This would be it. Finding a relatively hidden spot we pitched up, had some dinner and finally bed.

The evening light was a stunning end to what had become a long day.

Not wanting to draw too much attention we packed up early and headed off to find a breakfast spot.

A few kilometres down the road we found some great benches and a wall with a beautiful sea view. Perfect spot to watch the day coming to life and fuel up.

Heading off into the steady northerly head wind it needed to be a shortish day.

I wasn’t well but I was so lucky that my saviours, although unknown at the time, were just a bit further north. 

We had planned to stay with Bernadette and Louis Marie as we made our way to Nantes. When Bernadette made contact with Greg later that day, we still had a couple of days riding before leaving our route to head to their place in Machecoul. 

Initially it seemed our timing was not great. We would be in Machecoul when they would be away at a wedding.

But no. Keen to see us, they offered to pick us up the next day, after riding for 50 odd kilometres, and we could stay at their place while they were away. Could this have been any more perfect!

After a short 46 km ride we stopped at a campground in Girrand. I was in need of the comfort of a campground and its amenities. We could pitch the tent on arrival and have showers before meeting up with Bernadette and Louis Marie.

The next morning we worked out we could leave our planned route and ride directly to them without the need for the pickup. 

Leaving the Velodyssee, we headed through an industrial area before having an early morning coffee stop.

They rode out to meet us in La Garnache and took us through some back roads to their very welcoming home on the outskirts of Machecoul.

It was so so nice to be there. A proper house, a proper bed. It really was divine timing.

Je suis font! I was done. Very much so.

Before they left the next day, Greg and Louie Marie went for ride around Machecoul, with a visit to their local co-op store, while I slept.

Bernadette recommended thyme tea and a thyme inhalation. Both worked well to ease my sore face and cough over the next few days.

They would be back on Monday, 3 days away. While I never left the house or got dressed, Greg got to know Machecoul as he found fresh provisions each day and took the train to explore Nantes one day.

Situated beside the Loire River, Nantes is the sixth largest city in France. During the 17th century it became the largest port in France.

Today the Nantes region is France’s largest food producing region.

It is also the 2nd largest centre for aeronautics, behind Toulouse, and from where Airbus produce its wingboxes (wing structures) and radomes (weatherproof antenna enclosures).

Greg’s day in Nantes…

Nantes clearly has had a strong focus on being a green and liveable city; winner of the European Green Capital Award in 2013, today the charming pedestrianised city has a very welcoming feel.

Major annual art installations are a feature of the city and this year’s installation on the Fontaine de la Loire at Place Royale was arresting.

1.5 times life-size figures engaged in contemporary occupations and pursuits replacing the usual allegorical bronzes which were looking on from temporary scaffolded perches – a modern people’s revolt perhaps?

The warmly welcoming Café Joyeux just off the square was a treat, staffed by young people with disabilities who were so focused on providing the best possible service with support from non-disabled colleagues.

A bell was rung each time a customer added a small donation to their purchase and this was responded to with a rousing “merci!” from the staff. A great place for a morning coffee and patisserie.

“Nantes. In praise of the side-step” depicting the sharply suited sculptor Philippe Ramette himself, intends to reflect back to the city its adaptability, flexibility of thinking and artistic attributes, whilst all the while portraying an air of discreet elegance.

It certainly makes sense to me that the people of this city should feel quietly proud.

The Château des ducs du Bretagne in the centre of the city is beautiful – first built in 1207 it has been restored by the city and reopened in 2007 after 15 years of work and three years closed.

Today it houses the natural history museum which unfortunately I did not have time to visit. The walk around the ramparts was stunning though.

Six of the rooms in the museum are devoted to the transatlantic slave trade – an indication of willingness we’ve noticed in our travels to reckon with the shadow parts of our history in a more honest way than we experienced growing up.

L’homme de Bois, literally “The Man of the Woods” stands 6.1m tall, providing water for a wetland garden in the lovely Jardin Des Plantes, the Nantes Botanic Garden.

On the Monday, I was starting to feel better and had ridden out with Greg to get our daily provisions in Machecoul.

After Bernadette and Louis Marie returned in the afternoon they took us for a drive to show us more of the local area.

The oyster boats at Les Brochets were coming in and Louis Marie was the perfect guide; after giving up his farming career he worked in this industry before retirement.

Oysters on the Vendée coast are farmed in mesh bags, taking between two and four years to reach a merchantable size.

Over this period the bags are lifted and brought ashore several times to sort the oysters, ensure they do not clump and to prevent proliferation of algae. Hard physical work in tough strongly tidal conditions – not for the faint-hearted.

We had seen oysters for sale at markets as we cycled up the coast and could now appreciate why they seemed expensive!

We stopped at an oyster processing plant near where Louis Marie had once worked. They were generously given a large bag of small mussels, each about the size of a thumb.

Although we had seen these on menus but they had looked so small we hadn’t bothered with them.

They were in fact delicious. Steamed with some garlic and onion, parfait!!

Even though not fully recovered I was good enough to cycle again, we decided to leave the next day.

So very very grateful for Bernadette and Louis Marie’s hospitality. Truly my saviours!

The train to Nantes would give us a head start and ease me back into the saddle.

Biked: 486 kms (Total 2,363 kms)