It was a slow start after our big ride into Paris yesterday. Even with my continuing tummy pain and feeling overwhelmed, again (mostly tired and also something that happens when we get to a new city – maybe just getting back amongst people again??), it was still exciting to head out to test our skills with the Paris metro to find our way around town and start exploring Paris.

Destination Eiffel Tower today, getting our first glimpse as we walked along Avenue de New York.

On route we stopped at the Musee d’Art Moderne de Paris, MoMA, which showcased a more contemporary mix of artworks.

And a walk through the gardens at the Musée du Quai Branly on the way.

The surrounds of the Eiffel Tower have changed significantly since I was last in Paris, 42 years ago. Today it is a fenced area with admission through security screening. I remember it being totally open all those years ago.

It was still an amazing to be standing beneath Gustave Eiffel’s Paris icon. The tallest structure in Paris at 330 metres tall (similar height as an 81 storey building and about 50m less than the Empire State Building), was completed in 1889 after 2 years construction for the 1889 World’s Fair, celebrating the centennial of the French Revolution.

Having both been up the tower before we decided not to join the queues to do it again, instead enjoying the marvel of its construction from ground level.

Hoping that waking up drenched during the night was a sign the “virus” I have had was working it way through my system, we decided to start the new day by walking to the nearby Arc de Triomphe.

Taking 30 years to build, it was started in 1806 to honour those who fought and died in the French Revolution (1792-1802) and Napoleonic Wars (1805-1815). Not wanting to dwell on it as a war memorial, it is an impressive arch sited at the convergence of 12 radiating avenues, with the traffic effortlessly moving around the unlined roadway surrounding it without incident or horns at play.

Although it seemed grand as we approached it, it was even more substantial actually standing under the arch having walked under the roadway to get a closer look.

The famous Champs Élysées is one of the avenues running from the Arc de Triomphe and was next to explore. A mix of restaurants, hotels and shops, with high end shopping being well represented.

The signs for the Worth exhibition at the Petit Palais just off the Champs Élysées caught my eye and having worked in the fashion industry for over 15 years, we decided to view the exhibition. And I’m so glad we did. What an amazing array of garments on display as well as the history of Worth couture.

Charles Worth, regarded as the father of haute couture, founded the House of Worth in the mid 19th century, and went on to create the extravagant designs, including masquerade costumes, for the rich and famous ranging from Empress Eugenie (wife of Napoleon III) to Lillie Langtry (British socialite and actress). He was the first to use live models to encourage sales and sew branded labels into garments.

The Petit Palais is also home to the Musee des Beaux-Arts de la Ville de Paris which continues the display of stunning European art.

Feeling much better the next day, it was to be a fabulous day of more art as Greg writes…

N⁰ 1 Rue De La Légion d’Honneur on the North Bank of the Seine is home to the fabulous Musée d’Orsay, a magnet for me. I was very much looking forward to visiting and felt so lucky to be able to do so! There’s always a risk with such expectations, however from the outset it was just as magical this time as when I first visited, around 30 years ago.

Home to the largest collection of impressionist and post-impressionist art in the world, the museum is housed in what was originally the Gare d’Orsay, built in 1900 and the first electrified urban railway terminus in the world.

The station escaped demolition in the 1970s after government intervention – a hotel was planned and approved for the site – and instead was redeveloped to provide a wonderful space to celebrate art from this (museum-wise) under-represented period. We, and 3.8 million or so others each year are very grateful for that act of vision and courage!

The museum, despite its large collection, feels like it’s on a human scale, not overwhelming and for the most part not too cramped. With 3,500 or so objects on display there is plenty to enjoy and we had put aside the day to do so.

Arriving at opening time, we settled in for the day, having lunch in the restaurant and leaving when the museum closed at 6pm – two tired but happy kiwis.

Our 5th day in Paris took us north of the city to the famous Les Puces de Saint-Ouen. The “flea market” houses the largest antique market in the world. Little streets with lots and lots of small shops selling all manner of antique furniture, housewares, tools and clothing.

A magical place where I’m sure a bargain could be had for just that piece you were looking for. We both agreed that should we be living in Paris (very unlikely) that we would furnish our home from these enchanting shops.

But with no home to furnish and no room on the bikes for any likely purchases, we were back on the metro and headed further north to Montmartre and taking the funicular ride up to the Sacré-Coeur.

Based on a free interpretation Romano-Byzantine architecture styles, the church dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus was built on the summit of the butte of Montmartre at the end of the 20th century. Consecrated in 1919, it is traditionally associated with Saint Denis, the patron saint of Paris.

There were people everywhere and a long queue to view inside the church. We had seen some amazing churches on our trip, for which no queuing was required, and decided not to join the queue.

Opting instead to take rest and have our lunch on the steps outside while breathing in the expansive views in front of us.

It occurred to me while watching the world go by and the families in the queue that maybe I’m no different to a child being “difficult” when I “lose the plot”. I’m down on resources and don’t manage my interactions well. It could pointed out that I am an adult and therefore there is a higher expectation of my interactions, but when resources are empty, they are empty. For a child and for me. It was lovely to be able to share these thoughts with Greg and I appreciated the interesting discussion that ensued.

Taking a walk through the streets around the Sacré-Coeur after lunch and down into Montmartre, an area renown for its artistic history.

Many artists lived and worked in this area during the Belle Époque, the period from the end of Franco Prussian War in 1871 to the outbreak of World War I in 1914, including Picasso, Van Gogh, Matisse, Degas and Toulouse-Lautrec.

Picasso painted one of his most important masterpieces here – Les Demoiselles d’Avignon. Van Gogh painted Le Moulin de la Galette and the scenes of Montmartre – Terrace of a Cafe on Montmartre, Shelter on Montmartre, to name just a few, during his time living here.

The famous Au Lapin Agile, the Agile Rabbit, nightclub dating back to 1860, still operates today as an informal cabaret venue, promoting new talents without the support of microphone or sound.

Winding our way down through the second hand clothing stores and cafes filling the streets of Montmarte we found our way to down to Madeleine and the Arc’teryx store where I was keen to check out their lightweight waterproof jacket. Beautiful but expensive – I’d have to think about this.

Ultimately it didn’t take long and as we made our way back to the hotel, I decided that we needed to return the next day with our life savings in hand to purchase “the” jacket. So glad I did, I love it!! But such privilege.

And then before we knew it, it was our last day in Paris and it was treat day. Starting off at our local, Petite Baguette, with a french patisserie breakfast of croissant au jambon et fromage and a pain aux raisin.

Taking the metro, we’re getting very good at this, to see Notre-Dame today, passing through the Place Louis Lépine, a maze of garden stores.

Notre-Dame suffered in a fire in 2019 which destroyed a large part of the roof and the flèche, spire, we were keen to see it standing proud again. Restoration is still ongoing although open for viewing.

Building work started on this French Gothic style cathedral in 1163, taking 182 years to complete in 1345. Notre-Dame’s long history within Paris includes these notable moments…Napoleon crowned himself Emperor at Notre-Dame in 1804, and Charles de Gaulle celebrating the Liberation of Paris with a special mass in August 1944.

Again so many people, and a long queue to get inside. Not our thing these queues and after while soaking in its presence from the outside we strolled around the outside to get a view from the back, although somewhat obscured by the temporary site offices supporting its renovations that sit to one side of the church.

And to our surprise, albeit a sombre surprise, behind Notre-Dame, also on the Île de la Cité, is Le Mémorial des Martyrs de la Déportation. A memorial to the 200,000 people deported to Nazi concentration camps during World War II.

Despite or maybe because of its funereal subject, this was a highlight of our time in Paris. It has been described as a “crypt, – hollowed out of the sacred isle, the cradle of our nation, which incarnates the soul of France – a place where its spirit dwells.”

And it felt like that – like all the souls of all those people were present there today. A beautifully solemn place that brought us in touch with and giving us a very small glimpse of what those lives were subject to, through survivors’ videos, photos of camps after liberation and documented stories of lives within the camp walls, all contained in a series of underground rooms.

In respect of the memorial no photos were allowed to be taken inside, they were not needed. The presence of all those souls will stay with me for some time to come, to reflect on the atrocities that humans are capable of. And how on earth is it, knowing how horrendous this was, that it still happens in our world today. Are humans really that stupid??

A stroll through some streets nearby, back to the Arc’teryx store for the jacket and another stop at Petite Baguette for our afternoon treat – mine a mille feuille and Greg, a pear and blueberry tart before resting up before dinner.

Wanting to have a Parisian experience for our last night in Paris and ultimately our last in Europe, the hotel recommended a local restaurant Le Petit Villiers. Exactly what we wanted, the perfect summer dining experience on the streets of Paris.

Thank you Paris, and thank you Europe.

The people, the sights, the weather, the history and not forgetting the cycling – it has all been just magic!