…taken from Miriam Lancewood’s book “Wild at Heart”

Travelled: 276kms

Leaving Nelson we rode through Rabbit Island to catch the ferry to Mapua, meeting Joanna and Russell from Invercargill, with an invite to stay, while we waited. I’m sure our unkept look and grey hair helped us earn the Seniors price for the ferry ride!

We met up with Laurence in Mapua and had what sounded like a delight, fish and chips for lunch. We suffered the rest of the afternoon from this over indulgence. It was lovely to see Laurence who had had a fantastic skydive over Motueka after finishing the Abel Tasman walk the day before.

Not be able to secure any accommodation by phoning around, we rode out knowing something would turn up. Kina Beach Reserve was the something. The lovely Jenny found us a spot on the other side of the stream and we could have thought we were in Rarotonga. The view through the swaying trees to the beach. A real Tasman Bay gem.

The next day we stopped at a woodwork and weaving studio, Jointworks. The work was amazing. Tony is a tutor at the Centre for Fine Woodworking showed us through his workshop and Jane is the weaver having learnt from her mother. I was moved to tears at the simplicity of the lives and the ware that they were producing. I felt the looms so inspiring. Previously Wellingtonians, they are now enjoying the quieter lifestyle and community living that their change has brought them.

We decided to stop at Motueka for the night, a short ride for us. Starting the next day at the Swiss bakery in Motueka (a memory from our earlier visit to Motueka), we continued with the Great Taste Trail down the Motueka River. This was the best days ride we have had. The quiet flat road following the river was glorious. We came around a large lay by area with a couple of campers already beside the River. It was a great place to stop, meeting Nick and Sharon from Christchurch there. A swim in the river was a perfect end to the day.

Intending to head for Kohatu, we rode through to Tapawera where a mountain biker recommended we go inland and avoid the Hope Saddle. The quiet road turned to gravel after 23 kms, which was tiring and relentless, constantly watching for and riding on the smoothest path through the gravel. The verge was not wide enough for camping and late in the day we spotted a track going up a hill with enough flat space at its entrance. This became our spot for the night.

I felt very apprehensive the next morning, expecting to spend another full day on the gravel. Surprisingly after about 8km we came across SH6 again and the heavenly sealed road. We rode on to Murchison where we decided to have a rest day.

We had no idea when leaving Murchison that in a couple of hours we would be transported back in time for a real West Coast experience. Thanks to Waiora’s friend Hélène we got the chance to stop at the Newton Livery.

Built in 1899, the Newton Livery was a well known stopover for travellers and drovers. Although derelict when purchased by Stephen McGrath 45 years ago, he ran the farm as an authentic horse powered farm preserving the skills and knowledge relevant of this horse drawn era using the traditional workhorse, the Clydesdales. Stephen passed away in June last year but his presence everywhere is tangible – we are so lucky to have stayed there – an enduring memory!!

Stephen’s friend Wayne was currently in residence and was a wonderful host. The kitchen had a Rayburn stove going 24/7 to provide the only heating source. Stoking the fire the boil the kettle and cook dinner. A long drop for number twos only. Number ones wherever the need took you. Numerous fruit trees with a magnificently laden plum tree with 2 wood pigeons atop.

At the back of the property was the Buller River. The colours of the rocks, the clarity and colour of the Buller were superb. I’m running out of superlatives to describe this place. It was truly the most amazing place.

On to Berlins overnight and a swim and wash in the Buller River. A beautiful day’s riding through the Gorge.