Travelled: 4 kms (Total 1,742 kms)

Bluff dawned a beautiful day which bode well for a calm ferry to Rakiura.

• 

• 

• 

We wandered around to the Bluff Maritime Museum, which was a treasure-trove of great displays and working machinery before needing to be at the ferry terminal at 1pm.

With our panniers neatly packed into the freight crates and our bikes tied down we were on our way.

• 

• 

We stood at the back of the ferry for the the calm one hour trip, although my tummy may not have agreed.

• 

• 

• 

Nevertheless the time went quickly and soon Halfmoon Bay was in view and a new adventure was about to begin.

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

We’d tried to book accommodation a couple of weeks ago only to be told by the very helpful Carol of Stewart Island Backpackers “nothing available sorry” – and there isn’t – everyone apparently now sees Rakiura as a must-do overseas destination.

That changed completely when we remembered we had a tent. “Oh, come anytime!” So with no booking we found our way to the Stewart Island Backpackers and we’re rewarded with a lovely welcome by Carol and a tent site. Yay, sorted for the next 6 nights! Leaving Thursday.

• 

• 

• 

• 

A stroll into town – a 5 minute walk, we had the the ritual drink and hot hot chips at the packed South Seas Hotel. It is the only pub in town and with the Crusaders Highlanders match about to start, it was definitely drawing in the crowd.

We woke to the best bird song we had heard since being away, with a few unknown songsters at play.

Thinking we would go for a walk today but with no particular timing, we took our time to rise and had to work fast – needing to have breakfast and make lunches before the kitchen closed at 11am for cleaning.

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

We decided to walk out to Ackers Point as our first stop, passing beautiful Lonnekers Beach and Leask Bay on the way.

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

Giant kelp floating around the rocks, brilliantly clear water and golden yellow sands gave us a delightful view of the Halfmoon Bay shoreline.

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

Before leaving the Ackers Point track we stopped at Harrold Bay which is where the oldest European building in Rakiura resides, Ackers House.

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

Heading back to Oban we walked up and over to the other side to Ringa Ringa Beach for our lunch stop, overlooking the 4th green of the Ringa Ringa Golf Course.

• 

• 

• 

• 

Continuing on that side of the island, we walked on to Wohlers Monument. Reverend Wohler arrived at Ruapuke, an offshore island, in 1844 as missionary and went on to learn Maori and strove for unity and prosperity amongst all peoples.

We followed the Golden Bay trail and then Observation Rock before arriving back in town.

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

The Kai Kart provided the best blue cod we have to date, with mandatory chips, of course!

Our next day started with a walk to Golden Bay for the short ferry ride, and beat value – $20 return, to Ulva Island today on the good ship Ranui no less! And with an Amelie boat (Hi Amelie & Ruby) in the bay.

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

We followed all the walking paths taking our time to take in all on offer.

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

The walks connected a few bays to give us wonderful vistas from what has become the most southern aspect of our travels.

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

It was to be a truly magical day as the pristine bush provided a stunning backdrop for all the birds we saw – Saddlebacks, Kereru, Bellbirds, Tomtit, South Island Robin, the Yellow-crowned and Red-crowned Karkariki, Yellow heads, Kaka and most exciting of all… the elusive Kiwi.

The binoculars that we have been carrying all our journey finally justified themselves.

It was so fascinating to closely follow a pair of red-crested karkariki as they flew to and from their nest and to watch the kaka pick a berry and then put its claw around its beak while eating it (just like us putting our hand over our mouths). We would have missed such wonderful sights without them.

Now it’s time to play spot the bird (my apologies though, phone cameras are not ideal for close up bird photography!).

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

Two big days on our feet means a quieter day is in order. It turned into a very quiet day – a bit of work for me, reading for Greg, and a late afternoon walk to the museum which was just about to close. Oh well, we’ll have to do that another day!

We’ve decided to extend our stay until Saturday as the seas should be calmer for the return journey and well, why not?

A bit of light rain overnight gave way to a sunny morning with a promise of more to come.

Today’s walk was the Garden Mount tramp through to Lee Bay and back to town – 15km all up.

It was a 4km road walk, up and over the hills to Horseshoe Bay and the turnoff to Lee Bay Road and the start of the tramp. Not a trail today, as it can be muddy underfoot so officially it gets an upgrade to a tramp.

• 

• 

• 

And it was like real tramping, needing to watch where the feet were going and using exposed tree roots to climb upward. A few dryish muddy areas which would be much worse after heavier rain.

• 

• 

• 

The wasn’t a lot of bird life, the usual tuis, bellbirds and kereru. Such commoners in such a short time.

The view from Garden Mount was serene. The peaceful view of the calm clear waters out to bush covered mountains near and far.

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

This is a very common vista on Rakiura, such treasure to behold!

The flora continues to delight. The amazing growth at all levels from the forest floor with so many varieties of moss to the growth on fallen trees generating new life. The lack of predators allows such growth continue in its most natural state.

• 

• 

• 

Coming out of the bush we walked alongside Little River before coming out at Lee Bay.

• 

• 

• 

Lee Bay holds the other end of the link of Maui’s anchor that we had seen at Bluff. The links are firmly anchored at each end but disappear under Fouveaux Strait to remind us of the spiritual connection between Rakiura and Mohu (Bluff).

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

After lunch at Lee Bay, it was back on the road to find the blackberries patch spotted on the way to the track. Rakiura blackberries are definitely larger than the South Island varieties we have been foraging.

• 

After a big walk comes a quiet rest day and a visit to the Rakiura Museum. The new facility opened last December and is a credit to all those involved. Great displays covering all parts of Rakiura’s history and some lovely personal accounts from locals of the changes during their lifetimes.

Our last full day on Rakiura meant we could finish the last of the short walks, today’s being the Ryans Creek track.

The track follows the original logging track from the late 1800s, when a series of sawmills milled mainly rimu timber along with some totara and miro.

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

The forest walk goes on to follow the waters edge before coming to Vaila Voe Bay where we stopped for lunch. Again more tranquility on Rakiura.

• 

• 

• 

And on through Thule Bay with some blackberry picking on the way home.

• 

• 

• 

Home this week at the Stewart Island Backpackers has been superb. We have seen and met so many people coming through.

Youngsters on their way to the 12 or 4 day hikes, oldies just coming because they can and a variety of everything else in between. Plenty of great stories shared with these wonderful people.

The Kai Kart’s burgers and chips was a fitting way to end our stay. I’m sure that the weight we have lost during our travels to date will been returning with gusto, as we have bought more dinners than we have made over this last week!

Booked on the 3:30pm ferry on Saturday gave us enough time to see the local film production of A Local’s Tail, about the islands history, complete with a red carpet experience.

Oh well, it’s time to go.

If you haven’t been, put it on your list.

It has been amazing Rakiura, you are a true treasure in the wonders of New Zealand.

High luxurious living is on its way…