Looking forward to travelling up the eastern sea board of Spain, promises of warm weather and warm water to swim in, we retraced our ride into València to head north.

It was amazing to see land just on the edge of the large city being cultivated with crops. I sure this land has been used in this way for many many years but there is something heart warming to see it being so productive.

Following cycleways edged with vibrant oleanders and onto rural lanes we quickly reached our first campground in Almardá.

Right on the beach it was a perfect spot to have our first swim in the Mediterranean.

I wasn’t expecting to be a bit choked up but I was, somehow this was a milestone in our journey. We are swimming in the Mediterranean and we rode here, it was all just perfect.

We had made plans to meet Juliana and Dora (from Cuenca/Madrid) at their place in Peñíscola in a few days time which gave us a couple of extra days up our sleeve.

We could take our time and have a chance to completely stop for a couple of days.

With the coastline peppered with campgrounds, accommodation was to be easily sorted with just the riding to do.

Passing from rural panoramas through built up tourist, resort towns with beaches groomed for their new days visitors and the odd fancy looking golf course, the ride was always full.

Benicasim was our next stop, a little campground in this resort holiday town, surrounded by lots of larger apartment blocks.

Promising ourselves a swim at each stop we walked the 1 km or so back to the beach.

This was not to be the place for our extended stop we rode on the next day with big hopes for Club Tropicana!

Leaving Benicasim unknowing we joined a short Via Verde ride to Opresa.

Riding through some back country roads to the edge of Alcossebre, Club Tropicana appeared.

Initially booked in for 2 nights, it was the was to be perfect stop for our luxurious 3 night stop.

Pure luxury to stop and not have anything to do other than eat, sleep and swim.

Well rested and wanting to be in Peñíscola by late morning we headed out early for the short 25 km ride.

Ah, but good plans and all that…! The route soon had us riding through a nature park, Parc Natural de la Serra d’Irta.

The park had the most fantastic vistas and secluded beaches though most of its surfaces were not ideally suited for heavily laden touring bikes… huge potholes, big imbedded stones and dust.

Wouldn’t have missed it for world in spite of getting our first puncture!

Arriving later than expected and so warmly welcomed by Julian and Dora, we were still in time for lunch.

Cleaned up, we were taken to town for the most wonderful lunch. Three courses for €16 and not a small dish in sight! The meal was amazing and so lovely to be back with our hosts.

After lunch we walked down to the wharf as the fishing boats come in around 4:30pm with their day’s catch.

Catch unloaded and wheeled off to the wharf side market for selling. Fresh fish is such an important part of the Spainish cuisine.

After siesta time we came back into town to explore the walled headland area of Peñíscola.

Peñíscola was a fortified seaport, with lighthouse, built on a rocky headland and is joined to the mainland by only a narrow strip of land.

The headland today is mix of residential, restaurants and tourist shops.

Even though I’ve never been to Greece the small alleyways, whitewashed walls, blue windows and warm breeze made me think I was on a Greek isle.

The castle on the headland, built by the Knights Templar in the 1300s, became the home of the last Avignon pope Benedict XIII (Pedro de Luna) in 1415.

Around this time there were 2 popes. One elected and residing in Rome and an Avignon pope who was supported and influenced by the France crown.

There were moves within the church to have only one Pope, and Benedict was asked to resign but refused, taking refuge at this castle until his death in 1423.

The rooms he occupied had a window that took the eye to Rome.

Peñíscola has also been the site of many movies of the years including the 1961 Charlton Heston film El Cid.

Finishing the day with a dusk stroll and evening views of the castle.

The next day Julian and Dora drove us 45 minutes inland to Cervera del Maestre.

The municipality is located on a hill and at the top of the hill is ruined Moorish castle.

Starting with a walk through the town was delightful. The alleyways and stone buildings combined with the far reaching views, such a lovely peaceful place.

It has become an artists haven, with many artists taking up residence and putting some new energy back into the town, with new plantings and quirky additions to the buildings.

The castle is an archeological site with a group working through the site to unearth its hidden history.

We did have a fascination with the doors in the town…

And the first we had seen ceramic down pipes up close.

The day out was not complete without a delicious lunch in the only restaurant in town. I’m sorry not have taken pictures of the range of delicious foods on offer.

Rest assured though, the food was amazing and we did not go hungry.

Back to Peñíscola for a siesta and walk into town for our last look.

Again Julian and Dora have been the most wonderful hosts. We are so grateful for all you have done for us, and we will be back!

We are running out of our time in the EU/Schengen zone so there will be no stopping now until we reach Barcelona.

Back on the road, we continued to follow the coast north on a mix of cycleways and rural roads.

Some of the rocky coastline is reminiscent of our New Zealand shores.

Greg wasn’t feeling well as we left Peñíscola so we had a quiet restful afternoon on our arrival in Alcanar.

Feeling a bit better the next day, we rode on through La Ràpita passing by its gorgeous display of Jacarandas.

And then passing by fields and fields of rice paddies. I’ve never seen rice growing to this extent before and the vibrant green was a verdant contrast to the otherwise dry landscape.

The tower in L’Aldea was a welcome stop. Although a reconstruction, the original medieval tower probably stems from its Arabic history as L’Aldea means little village in Arabic.

Our stop for the night on the outskirts of L’Ampolla was not good for sea swimming but the pool was stunning.

Having an end of day swim has been so luxurious. The lightness of the cool water, just perfect to relax tired legs and weary bodies

The next day L’Ametlla de Mar had some fantastic building artworks.

The beaches and towns alongside started to get more populated and touristy, with wide boardwalks and eateries dominating the shores.

Dotted with idyllic beaches and sporting a colourful array of sun umbrellas.

And passing the biggest yachts we have seen to date in Port Tarragona.

The welcome at the campground in Cubelles could not have been better. It has been a hot dry day and a fellow camper lent Greg a hammer for the tent pegs, our usual implement being any nearby stone, and moments later… watermelon.

The most juiciest and startling pink seedless watermelon. Divine!!

Although no sea swimming today, the camp pool was today’s destination. The campground was pretty full and as was the pool.

It was lovely to be amongst Spanish families enjoying family time together. We have had a glimpse into the camping culture of Spanish people. Vibrant, with tons of laughter and enthusiasm, very special.

Our last day before Barcelona, took us through the delightful Sitges, often referred to as the Saint-Tropez of Spain and through the Parque de El Garraf on its more than slightly terrifying 10 kilometres of coastal road.

Although these pictures don’t do it justice the road is on the edge of the cliffs most of the way.

With only the concrete barriers between us and the steep fall to the sea below and very little shoulder to ride in.

It reminded me of hillside car chases in films, except they don’t have the barriers!

The traffic was amazing, so, so polite. Waiting until they could see a clear path past and giving the required 1.5m between us while passing.

The wind had picked up making it a quick dip for our final Mediterranean swim in Gavà, about 25 kilometres from Barcelona.

The beach was still well populated despite being under the flight path of the Barcelona airport. The world’s 28th busiest airport with a plane leaving about every 90 seconds.

Not the most relaxing spot but hey, it’s all part of the adventure!

The last of Spain camping is done and it’s been an absolute pleasure to have experienced it with our fellow holidaymakers.

The swimming was superb and the sunshine in abundant supply with most days in the high 20s, early 30°C. Again, just perfect!

Having had our first glimpse of a Gaudí building on the Parque de El Garraf road, Barcelona promises to be a new treasure awaiting our discovery.

Biked: 381 kms (Total 1,380 kms)